Let's discover one of the most famous landscapes of Normandy: the Cliffs of Étretat. This small Norman village of less than 1 inhabitants is one of the most touristic on the Normandy coast. Visiting Étretat is one of the essentials of a stay in Normandy.
This village welcomes more than 2 million tourists every year. It is, of course, its cliffs that have made the city so famous. Who has never seen a photo of this giant hole in the middle of the chalk cliffs? The view of it from Etretat beach is certainly one of the most famous in France.
So let's explore these cliffs, but also this small village, these places to see and discover.
What to do and see in Étretat?
- The market halls
- The Salamander Mansion
- Le Clos Arsene-Lupin
- Aygues Castle
- The Villa La Guillette
- Notre Dame Church
- Etretat beach
- The cliffs of Étretat
- The gardens of Etretat
Practical advice for visiting Étretat
Let's start our visit to Étretat with its town centre. Many buildings are to be seen such as the Halles, the Clos Lupin or the castle of Aygues. We will then take the direction of the beach of Étretat and its famous cliffs.
To visit Étretat, you need to know its history. Originally, Étretat was a fishing village which had its hours of glory. Indeed, the oysters were raised there which directly supplied the Palace of Versailles. The old oyster beds are still visible at the base of the Aval cliff.
Étretat later became a popular seaside resort which saw illustrious people pass by.
More recently, Étretat became one of the most touristic places on the entire Normandy coast, attracting more than 2000 million tourists a year in the 2s.
The market halls
Our first stop will therefore be at the Halles du Marché. A building that you cannot miss in view of its central position in the village of Étretat. The halls were rebuilt in 1926 by the Compagnons de la Manche. These may seem older to you and that's normal: they were partly built with old materials recovered from the surrounding area, especially in the town of Brionne.
The Market Halls are surprising: built of beams and slates, they now house traders selling souvenirs, decorative and regional items.
The Salamandre manor: a must-see building for a visit to Étretat
Located a few steps from the Halles du Marché, the Manoir de la Salamandre is one of the most famous buildings in Étretat. Today used as a hotel (Hôtel de la Résidence), this house will also seem to you to be an old building dating back several centuries, however, just like the Halles du marché, the Salamandre manor is not original.
The history of the manor is surprising since originally, this building was not in Étretat, but in Lisieux. It was built in 1889 in Lisieux then moved in 1912 – 1917 to Étretat. Dismantled then reassembled, this traditional residence was modified during its reconstruction. Moreover, the name of this building, "Manoir de la Salamandre" is the name of another building in Lisieux, now destroyed.
Have fun finding the carved wooden salamander on the facade of the mansion.
Le Clos Lupine
Le Clos Lupin, or Maison Maurice Leblanc, is located on rue Guy de Maupassant, not far from the town center of Étretat. Le Clos Lupin is one of the places to visit in Étretat. It was here that Maurice Leblanc wrote, between 1915 and 1939, more than 19 novels and some forty short stories, most of them devoted to the famous burglar Arsène Lupin.
Indeed, after having rented and then bought this residence, Maurice Leblanc spent almost all his summers there until 1939, when the war forced him to leave the premises.
Sold in 1952 by his son, the house changed owners many times until 1998, when Maurice Leblanc's granddaughter bought the house to turn it into a museum.
Since 2011, the house has belonged to the region, the department and the municipality of Étretat. The house can still be visited and is even one of the most visited writer's houses in France. Le Clos Lupin is one of the places to see in Étretat.
Aygues Castle
Located on the road to Étretat, the Château des Aygues is one of the most prestigious residences in the region. Built during the Second Empire, the residence saw illustrious people pass through, in particular the Tsars of Russia but above all two queens of Spain: Marie Christine de Bourbon-Siciles and Isabelle II.
The Château was so named in relation to the sources which flow in the park of this one: the Aygues.
The Château houses various period objects, including an astonishing collection of 250 pieces of Chinese porcelain.
The castle park is also a place not to be missed. Visiting it will cost you between €7 and €9.
The Villa La Guillette
La Guillette is none other than the home of the famous writer Guy de Maupassant. He had his house built on land sold by his mother. He spent nearly 15 years in Étretat during which he wrote some of his most famous works such as Bel ami and Le Horla.
The property is private but visits have been possible since 2014. These are organized by "Les amis de la Guillette", an association which aims to make visitors aware of this place where Maupassant lived and its history. It will cost you 4€ to visit this place.
Between the end of the XNUMXth century and the beginning of the XNUMXth century, Étretat attracted illustrious people who gave the town an important reputation.
Writers like Guy de Maupassant, Maurice Leblanc, painters like Claude Monet or even composers like Jacques Offenbach stayed for more or less long periods.
Notre Dame Church
A brief word on the Notre-Dame d'Étretat church. This has several peculiarities. The first is that it is located outside the village and not in the center of it.
The second particularity is linked to its architectural style. It combines the Romanesque style of the time of its construction, the XNUMXth and XNUMXth centuries. Completed later, another part of the church was built in the Gothic style.
Last particularity, the size of this church is particularly important in view of the town in which it is located.
Even if the Notre-Dame church is not one of the essentials to visit in Étretat, it can be interesting for architecture lovers to take a look.
Etretat beach
Let's now head to the beach of Étretat. First of all, let's walk along the seafront and take advantage of the landscaped edges of the beach which will allow you to stroll while contemplating the wonders of the place: the cliffs.
Along this promenade you will find, as in most seaside resorts, many bars, cafes, restaurants and the casino of Étretat.
Many activities are possible on the beach, including a stand up paddle or kayak trip to get a little closer to the cliffs.
An almond of 90€! This is indeed what you risk if you have fun picking up pebbles on the beach of Étretat.
Indeed, it is now forbidden to pick up pebbles from the beach. Victims of their success, more than 400 kilos of pebbles disappear from the beach of Étretat in high tourist season.
These pebbles having a role of primary importance in the conservation of the cliffs of Étretat, it is strictly forbidden to pick them up.
Visit Étretat: The cliffs of Étretat
Now let's move on to the heart of the matter, the cliffs of Étretat. We are not going to hide it, even if the city center of Étretat is worth a look, if we come to visit Étretat, it is to contemplate the sumptuous cliffs surrounding the beach of the city. To the north of the beach is the cliff of Amont, to the south, the cliff of Aval.
The Cliff of Aval
The Aval cliff is therefore the southernmost. This is made up of several points of interest such as the Porte d'Aval, the Aiguille, the Manneporte and the manhole. From this cliff you will enjoy a spectacular view of the beach, the city and the cliff of Amont. A path leads along the cliff and the golf course.
Falaise d'Aval
- The needle of the Aval cliff
With a height of 55 meters, the Aiguille d'Étretat is one of the main points of interest of the cliffs. - The Downstream Gate
The Porte d'Aval is certainly the most famous point of interest on the cliffs. The Porte d'Aval is the second most important arch of the 3 gates found in Étretat. At the top of this door is an observation platform offering a sumptuous view of the beach and the city. - The Manneporte
The largest of the gates, this arch is not visible from Etretat beach. To see it, you will have to take the customs path or walk towards the Porte d'Aval. Jambourg beach separates Porte d'Aval from Manneporte. From the top of it, you will also enjoy a magnificent view of the Porte d'Aval and the Aiguille d'Étretat.
The name Manneporte comes from the Latin “magna” which means “great”. - The manhole
At the base of the Aval cliff is a "hole" visible from the beach. This hole is nicknamed the manhole because, according to legend, a sailor found refuge inside this hole after his ship ran aground. Indeed, this hole, although inaccessible at high tide, has a refuge that remains above water, regardless of the tide. Many people get stuck in this hole, unable to get out at high tide.
A tunnel connects the “manhole” to Jambourg beach located on the other side of the Aval cliff. An ideal place to contemplate the Manneporte. - The Maids room
At the top of the Aval cliff is the Demoiselles room. A small cavity that can be reached from the top of the cliff.
There too a legend surrounds this place. The "young ladies" of the name of the place, refers to three sisters, Jacinthe, Eléonore and Catherinette living in Étretat. These three sisters were about to get married when the Lord of Fréfossé, a wealthy baron, fell under their spell. He then orders them to follow him. Refusing to abandon their beloved and their village, the three sisters took refuge in this famous cavity. Learning this, the baron decides to condemn access, thus leaving the three sisters starved to death. - The customs path
To take advantage of all the places of interest on the Aval cliff, all you have to do is take the coastal path which runs along the cliff as well as the Étretat golf course. It is reached at the end of the beach of Étretat, it rises to the top of the cliff and extends over several kilometres. - The golf course of Étretat
Last place of this famous cliff of Aval, the golf course. This one will delight lovers of this sport, they will indeed be able to practice in a sublime setting near the cliffs of Étretat.
The cliffs of Étretat are indeed fragile. Frequently, sections of these collapse. Several factors are involved: the sea, of course, which, at high tide, hits the cliff (hence the importance of not picking up pebbles) but that is not the only reason.
The cliff being essentially made up of chalk, it is porous. By infiltrating, the rain fills the rough spots with water, add to that negative temperatures and you will obtain the ideal cocktail to damage and weaken the cliff.
The Upstream Cliff
The cliff of Amont is therefore the one located furthest north. Although it has fewer places of interest than the Aval cliff, it is still worth a visit. You will find the Porte d'Amont, the small door of the cliffs but also the Notre-Dame de la Garde chapel. To get there, all you have to do is go to the end of the beach (on the north side) and follow the path that takes you to the top of it.
Upstream Cliff
- The Upstream Gate
The Porte d'Amont is the smallest of the three gates on the cliffs of Étretat. - The Chapel of Our Lady of the Guard
The Notre-Dame de la Garde chapel was built in 1854 by local fishermen to protect them when they went out to sea. Destroyed during the Second World War, the chapel was rebuilt after it. - Monument of "The White Bird"
Not far from the chapel stands an astonishing spire called “The White Bird”. This monument built in 1963 was erected in honor of airmen Nungesser and Coli who were the first to attempt to reach the Americas, by plane and non-stop. Étretat is the city above which they were last seen on May 8, 1927. - Etretat Heritage Museum
Going a little further, after the monument of "The White Bird", you will come across the Etretat Heritage Museum. This small museum tells the story of the city, from its origins to modern times. Count 2€50 to visit this museum. - The gardens of Etretat
Still on the cliff of Amont, between the chapel and the monument of "The White Bird", on the other side of the road, are the "Gardens of Étretat". Sumptuous gardens offering a breathtaking view of the city and the Aval cliff. I talk about it in more detail a little further down.
The gardens of Étretat, a visit to do in Étretat
The history of the Jardins d'Étretat began in 1905, when Madame Thébault, a French actress, decided to buy a house on the Amont cliff, taking advantage of a breathtaking view of the Aval cliff.
Madame Thébault, then a friend of the famous painter Claude Monet, regularly invites him to the garden of her home so that he can take advantage of the magnificent view that the latter offers on the cliffs. It was then that Claude Monet began to paint his series on “The cliffs of Étretat”. This series of paintings inspired Madame Thébault who decided to create an avant-garde garden of 4 square meters around the house.
The story could have ended there, but that was without counting on Alexander Grivko who, in 2015, set himself the challenge of restoring this garden to its former glory.
Inspired by the work carried out by André Le Nôtre in the gardens of Versailles, he undertook to recreate the Gardens of Étretat in the space of 2 years. New land was purchased to enlarge the garden, walls and paths built and more than 1 tons of earth were imported to plant several thousand square meters of vegetation. But the gardens of Étretat do not stop there and are not content to be simple gardens: it is also a real open-air museum of contemporary art.
The Gardens of Étretat are one of my favorites and are, in my opinion, a must to do in Étretat.
As you stroll through the alleys of the gardens, you discover different universes, and contemplate works of art, each more surprising than the next.
7 gardens have been created, each with a different universe.
- Jardin Avatar
The first of the gardens you will come across when entering the Jardins d'Étretat. Three works are there, the most impressive being this enormous key to turn in a tree trunk to bring out a melody. - Garden Prints
The Impressions Garden is below. It is in this part that the house is located, as well as a platform offering you a breathtaking view of the Aval cliff. You will also find works of art such as a boat, or a huge wooden garden furniture. - Garden Emotions
The Emotions garden is undoubtedly the most impressive of all. Seven sculpted faces representing seven emotions are included. Huge heads hidden in a bed of box trees immerse you in a completely amazing atmosphere. - Downstream Garden
The Jardin d'Aval was created in memory of the first owner of the premises, Madame Thébault. You will discover a bed of orchids and be immersed in a universe that some will not fail to recognize: Alice in Wonderland. - Zen Garden
The Zen garden, furthest from the entrance, plunges you into a most peaceful universe. Garnished only with white flowers, you will find amazing terracotta shapes hanging from the trees in this garden. - Garden La Manche
Located in the central part of the garden, the La Manche garden is a real labyrinth in which it is pleasant to get lost. Many nods to the nearby Channel can be found in this part of the garden. - Upstream Garden
The highest part of the gardens, the Jardin d'Amont, arranged in a staircase, recalls the cliffs of the region. The geometry of the shapes will undoubtedly surprise you.
Practical advice for visiting Étretat
- Where to sleep in Étretat?
Etretat will be an ideal place to spend the night. If you are looking for accommodation in Etretat or around, do not hesitate to read our article dedicated to accommodation in Etretat. - How long does it take to visit Etretat?
Even if one day is theoretically sufficient, I advise you to plan a day and a half, or even two days. This will leave you time to enjoy the city, its beach and its cliffs. A sunset at the top of the cliff of Amont is for me a must to do without hesitation. - What are the essentials of a visit to Etretat?
If you have little time, then my advice would be to join the beach passing by the commercial street of Étretat. So you can see halls, the salamander mansion, then borrow the customs road which will lead you to one and the other of cliffs. - Where to park in Étretat?
Even if, in low season, you can easily walk through the city and take advantage of the small car parks and spaces available in the city center, forget this solution in summer. A large car park is available along the road to Le Havre, Parking du Valaine (not far from the entrance to the Golf), 800 meters from the town centre.
RV parking is also available here.
My opinion on Etretat
Étretat is a charming town that I really appreciated. Visited during the month of June, I found the city calm, peaceful where it is good to stroll and enjoy the seaside. Taking a walk in the city center of Étretat seems essential to me, as for the cliffs, don't ask yourself not which one to discover, both are to be seen!
Prefer the cliff of Amont at sunset, you will not be disappointed with the trip.
