Discovering the history and terroir of Ariège
Carcassonne and Castelnaudary have their Cassoulet, the Midi-Pyrénées region has its foie gras. Mirepoix has his (or her)… mirepoix! If the mirepoix is not as well known as its colleagues, this culinary specialty is worth a detour. And the city that shares the same name too.
To discover this local heritage, go to Ariège. A preserved department if there is one. The prefecture, Foix, has just 10000 inhabitants. About thirty kilometers to the east, you can discover Mirepoix and its 3200 souls. But do not stop at this (small) figure: Mirepoix is a particularly active small town which attracts many tourists every year in summer (from France, but also from Spain and England).
Welcome to Mirepoix!
Typical of Ariège, this town is built according to the model of the country house. Rebuilt would be the more appropriate term, since Mirepoix had to be literally "moved" after flooding in the 13th century.
Today, Mirepoix therefore revolves around a central square, surrounded by houses with exposed beams and colored facades. All around the square, the arcades offer a very pleasant walk, while the square itself, with trees, houses a carousel as well as a covered hall where one of the largest markets in the region is held every Monday ( do not hesitate to take a tour).
In a corner of the square, the Saint-Maurice de Mirepoix cathedral is also worth a detour. In perpetual or almost constant work for 900 years, the cathedral has never ceased to evolve. Inside, the painted vaults give an obvious charm to the building built along a simple nave. Very marked by Catharism, it is a magnificent testimony to local history.
What to see and do around Mirepoix?
If a walk in Mirepoix is very pleasant, it will not require you much time. But if you are enjoying a weekend or a short stay in the surroundings, take the opportunity to discover the other riches of Ariège.
A few kilometers away, the cave church of Vals, carved into the rock, offers a rather atypical face. Medieval history enthusiasts will also have something to do by visiting the fortified village of Camon, the castle of Montségur, at the foot of the Pyrenees, or the very beautiful castle of Foix, which dominates the city at the top of its rocky peak.
Where to eat and where to sleep in Mirepoix?
With around twenty catering outlets (restaurant, brasserie, take-away pizzas, etc.) for a little over 3000 inhabitants, we can say that Mirepoix is well endowed in this area! You will therefore be spoiled for choice to enjoy a typical Southwestern meal.
On the menu, dishes with mirepoix are essential. We find this preparation based on onions, carrots and celery, diced herbs and hash browns in a majority of dishes.
As for hotels too, you will have no trouble finding what you are looking for, with quality establishments and even - if your budget allows it - the only 4-star hotel in Ariège.
Exceptional stay at the Relais Royal de Mirepoix
The Relais Royal de Mirepoix is indeed an exceptional establishment. With 9 rooms and suites, this prestigious historic residence was renovated in 2004 to be labeled “Relais & Châteaux”. In addition to the comfort of the rooms, the staircase in the reception hall, the small lounge and the outdoor swimming pool (heated) make this hotel an ideal place to enjoy your stay in Mirepoix.
To avoid spoiling, the hotel also houses the Ciel d'Or restaurant. In the kitchen, the co-owner of the place, Rogier van den Biggelaar, works wonders, revisiting local dishes and the famous mirepoix. The wine list is also a pleasure for all those who want to discover the regional and sometimes atypical grape varieties.
Finally, the Relais Royal is like Ariège in general and Mirepoix in particular: endowed with a rich history, unforgettable for the taste buds and particularly welcoming. So what more could you ask for?
To get to Mirepoix, in addition to your personal car, the easiest way is to arrive by train or plane in Toulouse and then opt for the rental car. You will then need an hour's drive to reach Mirepoix.